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Kalamkari is a type of hand-painted or block-printed cotton textile, produced in Indian states of Andhra Pradesh and Telangana. Only natural dyes are used in Kalamkari and it involves twenty three steps.
There are two distinctive styles of kalamkari art in India - Srikalahasti style and the Machilipatnam style. The Srikalahasti style of Kalamkari(Kalankari), wherein the "kalam" or pen is used for freehand drawing of the subject and filling in the colors, is entirely hand worked. This style flowered around temples and their patronage and so had an almost religious identity - scrolls, temple hangings, chariot banners and the like, depicted deities and scenes taken from the Hindu epics - Ramayana, Mahabharata, Purana and the mythological classics. This style owes its present status to Kamaladevi Chattopadhyay who popularized the art as the first Chairperson of the All India Handicrafts Board.Seeping it in astringents and buffalo milk and then drying it under the sun.Afterwards, the red, black, brown, and violet portions of the designs are outlined with a mordant and cloth is then placed in a bath of alizarin.The next step is to cover the cloth, except for the parts to be dyed blue, in wax, and immerse the cloth in indigo dye. The wax is then scraped off and remaining areas are painted by hand,similar to Indonesian batik.http://www.vyavsay.com/kurtismanufacturerinsurat/
To create design contours, artists use a bamboo or date palm stick pointed at one end with a bundle of fine hair attached to this pointed end to serve as the brush or pen.This pen is soaked in a mixture of fermented jaggery and water; one by one these are applied, then the vegetable dyes.
In Iran, the fabric is printed using patterned wooden stamps. Kalamkari specifically depicts epics such as the Ramayana or Mahabharata. However, there are recent applications of the kalamkari technique to depict Buddha and Buddhist art forms.
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